Corner to corner crochet is one of my favourite crochet stitch methods- hopefully by the end of this pattern it’ll be one of yours too!
This pattern contains a brief introduction into C2C, along with charts and written instructions on how to make this cushion.
If you’re familiar with all things C2C, you may wish to skip the introduction and get straight into it -you’ll find all three graphs and row by row written instructions later in the blog post.
For those of you who might be new to C2C, or need a little refresher, I’ve provided some brief explanations on key things you’ll need to know to complete this cushion. There are many helpful c2c tutorials on the web too if you find my explanations hard to understand or inadequate 🙂
A huge thanks to Instagram users @knotsewscribbly & @lejardindeceline for suggesting the name! Don’t forget to use the hashtag #lovetrianglecushion to share your cushion on Instagram- I’d love to see it!
As well as the pattern, this PDF contains additional information and resources that are not included in this blog post.
-Written row by row pattern instructions for all three c2c pieces.
-Printer friendly document
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You will need:
–Paintbox Yarns* Cotton DK in colours:
2x Champagne White
1x Tea Rose
1x Lime green
1x Bubblegum pink
1x Washed Teal
1x Daffodil Yellow
1x Melon Sorbet
-3.5mm crochet hook
-45cm x 45cm (18″ x 18″) square cushion insert
– 4x buttons with a diameter of 2.5cm
How to crochet a square using the Corner to corner ‘C2C’ METHOD
Reading and following a C2C graph
As the name suggests, C2C is worked from one corner to another – this is also how you read the graphs.
- While you can start from any corner, I prefer to start from the bottom right hand side.
- Follow the graph in a diagonal ‘zig zag’ motion. Refer to the numbers and arrows on the grid (to the right) for a visual explanation.
Here are a few helpful notes:
- Each square represents one ‘3 chain, 3dc’ group.
- Each diagonal line of squares represents one row.
- Different coloured squares represent different colours of yarn.
- Make sure to mark each square off as you go! It can be easy to lose your place if you decide to put it down for a bit.
Increasing and Decreasing
Now that you (hopefully) have an idea on how to increase and decrease in C2C, its time to learn when and where to use them!
There are two different shapes used in this pattern- square and rectangles. Each shape is worked slightly different- increases and decreases are noted on the diagrams.
- Increases are worked at the beginning of each row until piece is wide enough (highest point on graph).
- Decreases are then worked at the beginning of each row to form a square.
– Increases are worked at the beginning of each row until piece is wide enough (highest point on graph).
– Continue to increase on one side and decrease on the other- alternate between increase and decrease on beginning of each row.
-When piece is long enough (bottom left corner), decreases are then worked at the beginning of each row to form rectangle.
Joining, Changing and Working with multiple colours at once
For this project you’ll be using multiple colours of yarn at at time.
Juggling a few colours at once requires patience – but it’s not as hard as you might think!
These methods can be used to join new colours and change yarn.
Here are some tips:
- Start off by making a bobbin (small amount of yarn) of each colour. You’ll need a few bobbins of the same coloured yarn for a few shades.
- Don’t cut your yarn after changing colours – drop the yarn you’ve just finished working with to one side of your piece (make sure all your yarn balls are kept on the same side – any side is fine, just keep it consistent). You will pick it up on the following row.
- Tangles are inevitable- stop every so often to untangle them.
While most of the colour changes in this pattern are done using the ‘mid row joining/changing colours’ method, there are a few instances on the back panels where you will need to start a new row with a different colour- use the ‘new row, new colour’ method in these cases.
Now for the actual pattern!
Download the following three graphs and get crocheting!
You should now have 3 completed c2c pieces- one front, and two back. Right sides of pieces are shown in the images. Work stitches on this side.
Using the yarn shade ‘Champagne White’, single crochet along all the sides of the ‘Front Panel’.
Work 1 SC in each stitch space and 2 SC into the sides of the double crochets and chain 3’s from previous rounds.
Refer to the image below for clearer instructions.
Repeat on Back Panel ‘BOTTOM” using yarn shade daffodil yellow.
The bordering of BACK PANEL (TOP) will be worked a little differently to allow for button holes. I have made room for 4 buttons for a ‘loose fitting closure’- If you desire a more secure closing, I suggest that you add more holes and buttons.
ROUND 1: Using yarn shade Daffodil yellow, and starting on the bottom left side of your panel (as indicated by arrow), single crochet along all the sides of the ‘Front Panel’.
Work 1 SC in each stitch space and 2 SC into the sides of the double crochets and chain 3’s from previous rounds- just like was done before. Slip stitch into first SC (this should be 1 of 2 SC worked into a DC).
ROW 2: Chain 1, (this does not count as a stitch) and 1 SC in each of the next 84 stitches.
ROW 3: Turn, chain 1, (this does not count as a stitch) and 1 SC in each of the next 84 stitches
ROW 4: Repeat row 3
ROW 5: Turn, chain 1, (this does not count as a stitch), 1 SC into the next 6 stitches, chain 5, skip 3 stitches. *1 SC into next 20 stitches, chain 5, skip 3 stitches** Repeat from * to ** 3 times.
1 SC into the next 6 stitches.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Evenly space the buttons and sew onto the right side of BACK PANEL (BOTTOM).
Now to join
Place the front and back pieces wrong sides together- the back piece is made up of both panels (ensure top piece covers bottom piece slightly).
Using the ‘mattress stitch’ and yarn shade Daffodil yellow, sew around all three pieces using the back loops of stitches previous made.